Calibrate the Radon Detector

radon-1028

To stay on the good side of the EPA guidelines, any person or organization must calibrate the radon detector - or if using a passive system, provide calibrate spikes to determine accuracy, at least annually to ensure the testing equipment is giving valid results. What this means at a practical level is that for three weeks of every year, my radon detector is not available. I use a pair of Sun Nuclear 1028 model monitors to provide testing in Moscow (an EPA Zone 1 area) and Pullman (an EPA Zone 2 area). To calibrate them, I have to contact Sun Nuclear, arrange for the service and return shipping (about $160 per unit), package it up on my end to send to Florida and then sit, twiddling my thumbs while they calibrate the radon detector.

That's for one unit - I get to repeat this for the second unit as soon as the first gets back. I deliberately run a staggered cycle so I always have one unit ready to go.

Sun Nuclear also sends back a Radon Certificate of Calibration for each unit. If you want to read an example, here is the Radon Certification of Calibration for one of my units. Obviously, this one will be sent out shortly for fine-tuning as the cert is up on November 2nd.

One significant point is that there is no tracking of calibration done in either Washington or Idaho. This means that if you are a buyer or a seller (why sellers? see below!), you need to verify that the machines in use are properly calibrated so that you get accurate results. Ask to see the paperwork - don't take the inspector's word for it. As much as I want to believe every inspector is from Lake Wobegon and is above average, the reality is that there are some folks who refuse to follow this simple process.

For Sellers

It is crucial for you to verify the accuracy of the equipment used in your home. Should the results come back at a level that the EPA recommend remediation, you might lose the sale with the reputation of your home damaged  (worst case) or be on the hook for the cost of the remediation - $1,800-$3,000 in my area.

Ask to see the documentation as part of the radon report - my particular equipment gets the date reset by the testing lab when they calibrate the radon detector. This isn't true of all labs so ask, ask, ask for the paperwork.

Home Inspection Guide for the Home Seller

Home Inspection Guide for the Home Seller

Congratulations!  You have an offer on your home and the inspection date and time have been set.  Now, let’s try to make this work as easily as possible for everyone and have an inspection process that helps you get to a successful closing.

First, let’s take care of some basic maintenance issues that might distract from the inspection:

• Have you changed the furnace filter recently?  A dirty filter will be mentioned in the report and causes the buyer to question other issues like the ductwork and cleanliness.
• Are all the light bulbs working?  Test your interior and exterior lights.  If some switches are don’t make sense after a remodel in 1962, leave a note for the inspector explaining what switches turn on which item. 
• Do you have new batteries in the smoke alarms? Many inspectors will test these using the button.  If the batteries are weak, the alarms will start to chirp alerting the buyer to look for other items that haven’t been serviced lately.  You should have a smoke detector in each bedroom and one per floor.
• Do you have a carbon monoxide detector? One per floor is recommended.
• Are the windows and doors working smoothly?  Sticky doors and windows will get noted in the report so doing a little light maintenance may go a long way.

• Provide keys, or unlock sheds and all outside buildings.
• If you haven’t cleaned the gutters recently, consider doing this before the inspection.
• Trim  the shrubs and trees around the home. This serves two purposes. First, well formed shrubs and trees enhance the curb appeal of the home. Second, the inspector can get to the areas on the exterior walls to report accurately what is there instead of making comments about potential pest intrusion and water damage.
• Cleaning is tough.  You’ve been doing it while you’ve been showing the house and –success! – you have an      offer.  Please maintain your  momentum and keep cleaning.  Buyers react negatively when they house was spotless for the showing but messy for the inspection.  It also makes it tough for the inspector by obscuring outlets, floors counter tops, etc., while slowing down the inspection. 

Home inspectors are also not required or advised to move personal items that are blocking access to areas that need to be inspected. This may result in an incomplete inspection, call backs, additional fees and a frustrated buyer.  It is to your best advantage to provide easy access to the following areas:

• Main electrical panel.
• Electrical sub panels.
• Attic access door. This may be in a closet, hallway or garage.
• Under room crawlspace access doors, including stored items in the space.
• Water mains.
• Hot water heater and surrounding area.
• Furnace and surrounding area.

Last but not least…I love animals and, for the most part, they love me back.  But having strangers intrude into their home can be very stressful for your pet. Try to find a safe location for them.  Cats are usually self-sufficient but dogs need some security.  Sometimes this may mean taking them to a friend or relative.  If you have no alternative but to leave them at home, consider providing them with a comfortable kennel and some water rather than locking them in a room or the garage.  Many inspectors will not enter a space with an unfamiliar dog no matter how friendly it seems. 

Best wishes and Good Luck!

Paul Duffau

PS. any Realtors that would like to use this letter, please feel free but let your client know where you got it. Many thanks!

Your Home Inspection Report is Confidential Info

Your Home Inspection Report is Confidential Info

About twice a year, I end up explaining to a peeved Realtor that I can't send them copies of  inspection reports because the information is confidential and it violates state regulations to release it without the customer's permission.

The last time I pointed this out, the Realtor sent me an email that I took as disagreeing with this. To quote, "Paul  that is  stupid..." I had sent a copy of the report to a partnering agent who apparently did not realize that it landed in his junk folder and she didn't see why I couldn't send it to her since they share an office.

The answer was that I am not permitted to. Here's the relevant Washington Standard:

308-408C-020WAC 308-408C-020 Ethics. Statement of purpose

In order to ensure the integrity and high standard of skill and practice in the home inspection profession, the following rules of conduct and ethics shall be binding upon the inspector.  The home inspector must:

(10) Not disclose information contained in the inspection report without client approval or as required by law.

Seems clear enough. In this particular case, I did the inspection for a person buying the home on a For Sale by Owner basis but was seeking advice from a licensed Realtor. All good, except that at the inspection, he didn't provide me with that information so that I could pre-clear the sending of the report.

By pre-clear, I mean that I have a spot in the Inspection Agreement where the customer can affirmatively check a box that gives me permission to disclose his or her inspection information to his or her agent. It still wouldn't have gotten the report into the hands of the second agent, though.

There is an exception:

However, at their discretion inspectors may disclose when practical observed safety or health hazards to occupants or others that are exposed to such hazards.

If the gas odor clubs me at the door of the house (and it happens more than you think), I can notify the occupants or others that the condition exists. That doesn't mean that I'm calling Avista to have them fix it. That's miles beyond the scope of my authority. But I can act in the interest of public safety and disclose information.

So, the bottom line for the customer. Your home inspection report is confidential information and you don't have to share it. Certainly, your inspector should never share it without your say-so.

Should the Seller Hire an Inspector? Part 3

This is Part 3 of Should the Seller Hire an Inspector? Feel free to offer comments and suggestions.

How to Pick your Inspector

One of the best compliments I ever received came from a client who had used me on a small commercial project.  The project was interesting - a turn-of-the-century storefront. He called me up later to inspect his home before he sold it.  His reasoning?  He wanted to take the best home inspector off the market forcing the buyers to select a lesser inspector.

I am going to presume that you, like most people, do not have a home inspector on speed dial.  If you decide that a pre-listing inspection makes sense for you, let’s look at the factors that you will need to evaluate in order to hire the right inspector.

Experience.  You need to have an inspector that has the professional background - education, time in the field, previous occupations - to be as thorough as possible. You should expect no less than five years of inspector experience in you region.  Previous experience in the building trades or as a code certified inspector is a plus.

Licensed.  Not every state has licensure but if yours does, your inspector must be licensed.  If things get contentious, the more qualified your inspector, the more likely you are to prevail.  Licensing is the entry level requirement.  Look for additional certifications from ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) or NAHI (National Association of Home Inspectors).  Ask to see copies of his professional license as well as any applicable business licenses.

Reports.  You need a detailed report preferably in a narrative format that will detail the specific condition that needs correction.  The inspector should be willing to do a follow-up inspection to document that repairs were made.  Expect to pay extra for this service.

Insured.  As I mentioned before, the inspector should be carrying E&O insurance as well as General Liability insurance.  Ask to see copies of his insurance binders.

You will note that I did not specify the fee.  While the fee is important to you, we are looking for a level of exceptional service.  A typical home inspection is going to cost somewhere between $300 and $500 depending on your region, the size of your home and the level of services involved.  Each region will have different pricing structures with some adding for building elements such as crawlspaces or charging extra for older homes.  Definitely ask but be aware that the low cost bidder is likely the one that lacks the other primary credentials that you need.

Another element to look for is a guarantee from the inspector.  When I do a pre-listing inspection, I offer the following promise:

I guarantee my inspection like this: if another inspector working for the buyer finds something that I missed that is included in my Standards of Practice, I’ll pay for the repairs up to the cost of your inspection.

Most inspectors are not going to voluntarily offer a guarantee so it’s up to you to ask.  The best inspectors will have some way of backing up their work.  Those are the ones that you want to work with.

Speaking of services, I will be covering environmental issues in Chapter 8 along with some of the specialty inspections that are offered in the marketplace.  I do not necessarily recommend that you do all of them but I want you to be aware of them so that you are not surprised if your buyer decides to access a higher level of information.

For now, you have enough information to have a candid conversation with your real estate agent.  Discuss with them the advantages and disadvantages of performing a pre-listing inspection on your home and make the decision from an informed basis.

This is the final installment of the article, Should the Seller Hire an Inspector? If you found it helpful, drop me a note. If you have suggestions, I would love to hear from you.

Re-Tooling the Inspection Report

Well, it's back to the drawing board for my inspection report. One of the reasons I chose the software I have is to be able to periodically improve my report. That never happens in the summer, of course, because I'm entirely too busy. Now that things are slowing down for the season, I can make all the adjustments on all the stuff that has been annoying me for the last six months, plus add in all the suggestions that clients and agents have made.

As an industry, this is one weakness that I have observed. The inspector gets married to a single method of reporting and simply never changes it. There are inspectors in my area still using the exact same reporting system that they started with years ago. News flash - the standards are constantly evolving and the inspector ought to as well.

By next month, I should have the system rebuilt. One of the goals is to greatly increase the detail of the descriptions. Many agents will consider this to be TMI - Too Much Information - but I see large changes ahead for the inspection industry. I'd rather ride the wave of the change than get drowned in it.

Improving the Inspection Report is just one small part of riding that wave.

Should the Seller Hire an Inspector? Part 2

What’s the Downside to Hiring an Inspector?

This is Part 2 of Should the Seller Hire an Inspector? Feel free to offer comments and suggestions.

I just did a quick search of the internet looking for disadvantages for sellers who have used pre-listing inspections and discovered that, in the virtual world at least, there are no downsides to having a pre-listing inspection. I disagree.  The prevailing thought is that you are laying off the risks to the inspector who is carrying Errors and Omissions insurance as protection against lawsuits and judgments.  There are two problems with this perspective: first, that the assumption that the inspector is insured; and, second, that the aggrieved buyer will only name the inspector in any potential litigation.  The truth is that a third or more of the inspectors do not carry insurance.  It is not required in most states and is expensive to hold so many inspectors skip it.  The other issue, involving litigation, is that lawyers tend to name everyone they can in a suit - the inspector, your agent, you -even your dog if the lawyer thinks they have an monetary value.  So, what are the risks...?

The major risk is that the inspector finds a material defect that you were not previously aware of.   Once you know you have a material defect in the property, you will be required to disclose it.  This can substantially impact your sale price even if you repair the defect.  Obviously, if the buyers discover it, it will have the same negative effect.

There is a second risk as well.  Let’s assume that you hired an inspector, he did his inspection and gave you the report.  You look it over and are relieved - there’s not much to be fixed.  You do the light repairs and, when you get and offer, confidently invite the buyer to get his own inspection.  Then you get the inspection report back and the second inspector has found multiple problems with your “clean” home.  What just happened?

Probably one of two things and, unfortunately, only one you can directly control.  The first possibility, the one not fully under your control, is the inspector for the buyer feels he needs to create issues to justify a fee.  The second is that you hired the wrong inspector.  That you can control.

The final installment of this article, Should the Seller Hire an Inspector? will be posted on Monday, September 30, 2013

Should the Seller Hire an Inspector? Part 1

Should  the Seller Hire an Inspector?

That is a good question that unfortunately does not have an easy answer.  If you ask a home inspector, the answer is likely to be an unequivocal “Yes!”  If you ask your Realtor, the answer may be an equally emphatic “No!”

They are both right so let’s look at why.  More importantly, let’s find out which decision is right for you.

Reasons to Get an Inspection

There are three primary reasons that sellers consider getting an inspection.  First, to build a “to-do” list and get the home ready for market.  This type of inspection is usually very effective at identifying issues in the home that you can correct before you list it with an agent.  You won’t normally fix everything on the list but most people anticipate putting at least a modest amount of effort into the repairs.  This allows you to present the home to the buyer in better than average condition plus you have the chance to use the repairs that you have already completed as part of the negotiation process and limit the opportunity for the buyer’s inspector or agent from using over-inflated repair costs to drive the price down.  Also, the repairs that you make will likely make the home show better and encourage more and better offers while

Another advantage - if you hired the right inspector which we’ll discuss shortly - is the opportunity to pick the inspectors’ brain on what is really a necessary repair versus those items that are usually ignored.  Since he is working for you, he is able to provide advice regarding repairs, the costs that might be associated with them and the relative difficulty.   This in turns gives you the chance to prioritize the most important items that must be addressed, the small items that are quick fixes and the ones that you can disclose but not correct.  Remember that no home is perfect, so having some items left on the list is not unusual.

The second reason is to protect yourself legally from disclosure related types of issues.  Every state has its own disclosure forms and requirements that you, as the seller, need to fill out.  Mistakes on these forms can be terribly expensive if a buyer decides to take you to court.  By bringing in the inspector, you have an impartial third party who can provide you with information for your disclosures.  Mind you, not all of it because some of the information is historical - was there ever a flood? may be a question that the inspector can’t answer since the repairs were completed eight years ago and there are no visual clues..  Still, if you release the report as part of your disclosure, you give the appearance of a person who is honest in his presentation of the home and we are trying to build goodwill on the part of the buyer.  They are much more likely to trust a person who is making every effort to be honest.

The disclosure issue can’t be minimized.  It used to be very rare for me to get a call from new homeowners asking about failed inspections and seller disclosures.  The trend is accelerating and I now receive a call every couple of  months from home buyers that want to know if they should sue their inspector, the agent or the sellers.  Some areas of the country are more prone to litigious behavior - California, Florida, Arizona - but even in the deeply rural area that I live in, the change is noticeable.

The third reason that you’ll often hear for doing an inspection prior to listing is to try to discourage the buyer from having a home inspection.  Many inspectors advertise that a pre-listing inspection may encourage the buyer to forgo their own inspection.  While this does happen, I don’t suggest it and, even when I’ve done the inspection for the seller, I always recommend that the buyer have their own inspection done. Why?  Because you never want a perceived conflict of interest on your part or the inspectors.  Remember, we are trying to build trust throughout the process and limiting the choices of the buyer or even trying to influence them to self-limit can work to build doubt.  It is, however, a successful strategy and I estimate that half or more of the homes I pre-inspect do not get inspected by a buyers inspector.

Should the Seller Hire an Inspector, Part 2 will be posted Friday morning, early....

Smart Moves by Sellers, Pt. 2

Smart moves by sellers, part two....

The temperatures have dropped precipitously in the last week or so, down about 25 degrees and, if the trend continues, next week I won't be running air conditioners.

One seller is already in front of the curve. I showed up and the receipts for the air conditioner service and furnace service were sitting on the table. My client joked that the seller had made it easy for me since I didn't have to check them now.

He was wrong about that - I have to check anyway since it is part of the Standards of Practice for Washington State. And, occasionally, I'll find something that the service technician missed. Hard to believe, but they are human and subject to the same foibles as the rest of us.

But the comment struck me as really interesting. The proof of service was very reassuring to the buyer and helped her feel much more comfortable with the mechanical systems. When I tested them and looked for problems, I couldn't find any which just built on the sense of security that she had.

So, we're reaching the time of year where everybody tells you to service the furnace to get ready for winter. I'm going to borrow some smart moves by sellers and suggest that you should service it to help make your potential buyer more comfortable with the home, especially if the furnace is an older one. Proof of your good intentions combined with the assurance that a professional or two have signed off on the equipment can be a powerful inducement to action.

Smart moves by Sellers is an on-going series of articles that will hopefully help you make your home more salable. if you have specific questions you would like me to answer, please email me or leave a comment.

Ufer Ground for New Construction

The term ufer ground is the old fashioned way to call out what the code book calls a concrete-encased grounding electrode. You probably don't know it but most new homes in the Pullman and Moscow areas are being built with a Ufer ground. First, let's have a short history lesson. In World War II, the American forces, specifically the U.S. Army, needed a system to ground bomb storage facilities in Arizona and Nevada. One problem with both of those areas is that they are extremely dry and the soil was a very poor conductor. For obvious reasons, the Army did not want excessive charges to build up around the bomb dumps. The existing means - long copper rods - would take a critical war material our of circulation and was very expensive.

Fixing this problem was Herbert G. Ufer. A sharp individual, he discovered that the foundations, made of concrete, were more conductive than many types of soil. He devised a system by which a rod was inserted into the foundation and tied to the electrical panel.

Moving on....

The concrete encased grounding electrode used in our region for residential construction is a 20 foot length of #4 rebar (1/2 inch steel) with a projection from the top of the foundation wall at a easy location to make the connection to the grounding electrode - the actual wire from the panel.

The old means - there were two - of grounding proved to be less effective in Pullman and Moscow due to better knowledge and a change in building material.

The early means of grounding was to attach the grounding electrode to the metal plumbing system where the main entered the home. Now that we use non-metallic materials for our plumbing supplies, this option isn't available.

The other way was to use driven ground rods. Unfortunately, these were less proficient at distributing energy and were often damaged at the clamps that held the wire to the rod.

How to determine if you have a Ufer Ground? Look inside the home under the electrical panel. What you are trying to find is a blank electrical box cover plate. If you have one and can not find a ground rod outside, there is a good chance that you have a ufer ground. The plate is there, by the way, in case you do have a major electrical event and the connection to the rod needs to be checked for damage.

Now a word of warning - nothing ever comes without a downside. Ufer grounds have been known, under certain conditions, to cause damage to the foundation in a lightning strike. If the concrete holds too much moisture, that water will flash off to steam and the expansion of the steam cracks the concrete.

Make sure that you keep your gutters in good shape and, when you water the lawn, make sure you're not watering the house, too. It's not good for the house and it can be a problem - not a high probability one, admittedly, but possible - for your ufer ground system.

Floor Plans - A New Inspection Service

Within the next couple of weeks, I'll be adding a new service for my clients - floor plans, which I'm reasonably sure is a brand new inspection service since I can't find anybody else offering it. These floor plans will be generally accurate and will include placement of major items like the windows, doors and heat ducts. By generally accurate, I mean that the dimensions of the room will be close, probably within an inch or so but not precise to the degree that would be available from a construction blueprint. If major remodeling is the intent, the floor plans can give the client a staring point but it won't include the structural components or precision that will be necessary to remove walls, lift ceilings, or otherwise radically alter the home.

The idea is to provide clients, especially those from out-of-state, with a way of determining how they plan on living in the home - where the furniture can go, which rooms will be the best for the baby, which one can be an office.

I haven't yet figured out the cost factor for the service (I know, I know, that should be first but....) but, off the top of my head with a time estimate, I think it will be around $75.00.

For Realtors, it provides a means of differentiating your sellers' homes and can be included in the marketing plan.

Once I flesh the idea of floor plans out a bit more, I'll add to the services page.

Water Resistive Barrier

I always joke that having a boring day is good for a home inspector and thought that I had it made on a new home - until I got in an attic and saw that there was no water resistive barrier and new siding. I could literally see the neighbor's house from a crack between siding pieces. Not good. In the bad old days before 2003, the IRC (International Residential Code) did not specify water resistive barriers for homes, leaving the details to the siding manufacturers. Some manufacturers required them while others were willing to certify their exterior wall coverings as primary water barriers. The differing standards led to different installation procedures, mass confusion and a slew of houses vulnerable to water intrusion.

So the codes changed.

Which brings me to a new home and no barrier. It should be there. It's in the code. It's also in the installation manual:

A properly installed breathable water-resistive barrier is required behind the siding.

Seems pretty cut and dried but I know that my clients will end in a battle - because this is not an easy fix. Correction will mean removing the siding (they're supposed to close this week!) The builder will likely make two arguments - the first, that he is adhering to the standards of practice for the region. Therefore, the buyers should not expect any better. This one he might win - others have, claiming essentially the same thing. "Yeah, it's wrong but everybody does it."

The second argument will come from a misinterpretation of the siding installation instructions. The manufacturer allows the siding to be nail directly to wall studs provided they are 24" on center or less - which is the case in this home.. It doesn't mention the water resistive barrier expressly so I expect him to claim it isn't necessary. It's a pretty bogus argument, but the builder is in a bind.

This happened on new home construction but I can see a potential for problems on remodels as well. When upgrading the exterior, you need the water resistive barrier. They work together. Some companies will try to cut costs - and the barrier can be a bit expensive - and, unless conditions are perfect, there is no way for the average home inspector to know. Yesterday I had the conditions and made a good catch that will save my clients a ton of aggravation a few rainy seasons from now.

Daiquiri Recipe

Apparently somebody in Aruba checked out the blog yesterday, maybe looking for a daiquiri recipe. I'm sure that they were disappointed and that just makes me sad. It is, however, fixable. Courtesy of The Food Network:

Daiquiri Recipe Ingredients

• 5 ounces frozen strawberries
• 1/2 banana
• 1 (6-ounce) can frozen lemonade
• Coconut, banana or pineapple rum, optional (really? Then what's the point?)
• 2 tablespoons powdered sugar
• About 12 (3 1/2 cups) ice cubes, or as needed
• Up to 1/2 cup fresh orange juice
• Fresh strawberries, for garnish, optional

Directions

In a blender, place the strawberries, banana, and frozen lemonade. Fill the empty lemonade can halfway with rum, if using, and add it to the blender with the sugar and ice. Blend until well combined and slushy. Add the orange juice to thin the mixture if necessary, or more ice cubes to make it thicker.

Divide among 2 or 3 glasses if you have friends or hog it all for yourself. Garnish with a fresh strawberry and serve.

Video Sewer Scope and Old Pipes

If you have an older house, getting the someone to do a video sewer scope inspection can possibly save you thousands. The issue that I run into on a home inspection is that I do a visual non-invasive inspection (mostly) and the sewer line is buried under ground making it outside the scope of what I do.

Based on the age of the home, I can make some educated guesses on what material - ABS, cast iron, concrete, Orangeburg - you may have connecting your home to the city sewer or to the septic tank. What I have no way of telling you is what condition those pipes may be in.

When I have some concerns, I recommend you to a professional who has the equipment - a sewer scope which is  a camera on a long flexible lead that gets pushed down the sewer line, sending back images to a video recording system.

Ideally, this operator will send the probe to the connection with the main sewer line or septic tank and report back what the material is and that it is in good condition. Unfortunately, as plumbing pipes reach the end of life period - and this is occurring more often with the post-WWII homes approaching 70 years old - we're seeing more failures.

The failures tend to aggregate into two categories. The first, material related, is simple degradation of the pipe. Orangeburg pipe - basically a toilet paper roll impregnated with tar - simply falls apart. Cast iron has rust issues.

The second category deals with time and the effects on the conditions around the pipe. One example is a failure of compaction in the soil that causes the pipe to shift or even break. This can be a problem with modern drainage piping - the lines often will develop sags that restrict flow. Another one, a particular problem in older neighborhoods are the wonderful mature trees.

I had a beautiful jacaranda tree in my front yard when I lived in Southern California. One of the reasons it was so spectacular was that it had a steady source of nutrients - my sewer. Trees are opportunistic and this one found all the joints in the clay piping and invaded at the seams where each hub piece was joined.

I bought that house before video sewer scope technology matured so I didn't get the advanced warming - the total tab was nearly $5,000 in repairs. Now that the technology is here, I recommend it to clients with older homes.

The actual wording that I use is " It is not unusual for older homes to begin to have problems with the waste drainage system.  These systems are not readily visible but can be imaged using a video sewer scope system.   Recommend having a video camera line inspection for potential blockages in the main sewer line."

It's up tot he client to make the call obviously - but it awfully cheap peace of mind.

Get Rid of That 'Rotten Egg Smell'

 That rotten egg smell you get every time you turn on the hot water? You can get rid of it.

Both Pullman and Moscow have neighborhoods that have a lot of bacteria in the water supplies. That doesn't mean that it is always a health hazard - often it just really annoying. We have iron and sulfur bacteria in our area, courtesy of the aquifers that we have. Neither type of bacteria is particularly harmful, at least not at the levels usually seen. 

Here are some valuable tips on how to avoid or treat sulfur bacteria infestations.

Sulfur-reducing bacteria live in oxygen-deficient environments. They break down sulfur compounds, producing hydrogen sulfide gas in the process. Hydrogen sulfide gas is what gives the water that rotten egg smell. It's also highly corrosive. The sulfur smell may only be noticeable when the water hasn't been run for several hours which is why is seems to happen in vacant houses more often than occupied listings.

Why is it only in the hot water?

Actually, it isn't - it's in the cold water, too. The water heater  provides a good environment for Sulfur-reducing bacteria because it contains a "sacrificial anode." This anode is a magnesium rod that helps protect the water heater by corroding instead of the tank lining. SRBs are nourished by electrons released from the anode as it corrodes.

Water heaters infested with Sulfur-reducing bacteria can be treated.

The bacteria dies at temperatures of 140 degrees Fahrenheit or above, which is roughly equivalent to the high setting on most home water heaters that are in good working order. Setting the water heater on "high" will raise the water temperature to approximately 160 degrees Fahrenheit and kill any SRBs in the tank.

(This should only be done if the water tank has a pressure relief valve, and everyone in the house should be warned to prevent scaldings.) After about eight hours, the tank can be drained and the temperature setting returned to normal.

Raising the water heater temperature will solve the odor problem, but it may be temporary depending on the condition of the house plumbing supplies.

Removing the sacrificial anode will eliminate the problem, but it can also shorten the water heater lifespan significantly and likely will void the warranty. Replacing the magnesium rod with one made of zinc won't totally eliminate SRBs, but it will greatly reduce their numbers. Consult with a plumber before attempting to modify your water heater.

I'm selling my house - Should I fix this?

If you have your home listed for sale, I can absolutely guarantee you that this will improve the way your home appears to prospective buyers. I've had more clients than I can count wrinkle their noses at the rotten egg smell coming from the kitchen or bathroom when I am testing the functional flows. It doesn't help you sell your house.

Clean air and water evoke powerful, positive feelings. I strongly recommend that you fix that rotten egg smell.

Copyright © 2013 Paul Duffau

Inspector Lawfare

A company in Mississippi is claiming, in an apparent attempt at inspector lawfare, that the processes that some inspectors use for infrared inspection are patented. Sensing a chance to make a buck without working for it (the New American Dream), they have initiated legal action. Would seem to be a joke except even as a nuisance, the inspector involved will have to defend the suit. Pretty much what everybody in the industry needs is friendly fire. Energy raters should be scared though; if this attempt at inspector lawfare stands, their businesses will be severely impacted.

I liked the picture John Poole of Birmingham Point shared on Facebook the other day.

Low Water Pressure for the Whole House

Turning on the shower and discovering that you have such low water pressure that you can't get the shampoo out of your hair is frustrating - especially if, like my daughters, you have rather abundant hair. The good news is that it is relatively rare, much rarer than high water pressure. The cause can be fixture specific, system specific (all the hot water lines are affected) or, in the case I had last week, affecting the whole house.

Testing for water pressure is not part of the Washington State Standards of Practice for home inspectors. Still, it isn't hard to do and can give the inspector clues on conditions inside the home.

In the photo to the side, you can see the gauge is reading about 32 PSI (pounds per square inch.) The water pressure I expect to see in normal residential housing is 40-80 PSI so this was definitely on the low side. A quick check inside allowed me to verify that nobody was using water and pulling the pressure down.

There are a half dozen considerations that must be taken into account when I see a reading like this. The age of the home is the first. If this were an older home, I may be looking at a main supply line that is corroding/failing.

Likewise, the individual line to the bib might be failing so determining the material is important - some materials degrade faster than others.

The answer I don't want to arrive at is that the municipal supply is that low. Without a booster system, which isn't horribly expensive but still an additional cost, what you see is what you'll shower with.

I this case, none of the above applied. The home was relatively new, less than five years old, and had PEX plumbing in good condition. It also had a pressure regulator built into the water supply. The regulators are now required in one of the municipalities that I work in and the plumber's assistant dutifully attached it. However, he forgot to make a simple adjustment to the knob on top.

The buyer was with me, so it took me just a moment to show him how to make the adjustment. Since I do free return visits for my clients, we arranged to adjust it after he took possession. In the end, his low water pressure issue was an easy adjustment rather than a huge potential expense.

PS. For those wondering why I didn't adjust the pressure while I was there, all I can say is that I am a guest in someone's home. I like to leave it the way I found it (unless it is truly dangerous!). It would be like me coming is, deciding I don't like the curtains, and taking them down for ones with little yellow duckies that I like better. As a guest, I should have better manners.

Traverse the Roof

One part of the Standards of Practice for Washington State that drew a ton of comments - much of it angry - was the requirement to traverse the roof during the inspection. There are excellent reasons to actually get on the roof. The most important is that a large number of issues simply can't be observed from ground level. In the picture to the right, I've lifted a flap on the three-tab asphalt composition roof.

First, I shouldn't be able to lift that tab with fingertips. That I can indicates that the tar strip - the black rubbery stuff you see on the shingle under the flap - deteriorated and isn't performing its function sealing the shingles together. Not unusual on an older roof and typically will generate a warning from me that the roof is aging and plans for future replacement should be considered.

The second item that was noticeable was the use of staples to attach the shingles to the roof. This was permissible for many years but went out of code somewhere around 1998-2000. I was still a foundation guy at that point so I don't know precisely when the change took place. Staples fail more easily than nails do which explains why we changed.

They are also harder to correctly install. If you look to the staple on the right (under my hand), you'll note that the installer put it in on an angle. That's a no-no.

None of this would have been visible from the ground.

Opponents of the requirement to traverse the roof had a good point - it can be very dangerous which is why my clients are not permitted to join me up there. The Home Inspector Licensing Board considered this and reached a sensible compromise. If the inspector feels that the roof is unsafe to traverse, he or she is not required to.

They didn't set specific conditions regarding the pitch of the roof or the weather or the health of the inspector (not joking - if Inspector Bob took an anti-histamine before going to work, he has no business up there.) They left it up to our discretion.

The one problem that presents is when a client becomes adamant that you traverse the roof. I had one who was exactly that determined for me to get on the roof. Pointing out that the wind gusts exceeded 70 mph and that to get on the upper level required balancing my ladder on a slope roof at the veranda only made him more determined. I finally offered his money back when he accused me of failing to deliver the promised services. He was shocked and backed down but it reinforced in my mind the most important part of roof safety.

I'm the one who gets to decide it I can traverse the roof. Not the client and not the agent. And I'll make a good faith effort to do it. But there isn't a roof in the world worth failing off of.

Summer's Toast

First day of school in Asotin. Drive carefully - the kids are looking a bit shell-shocked that summer is over.

Smart Moves by Sellers, Pt. 1

Smart Moves by Sellers

This will likely become on ongoing series...

The sellers at a recent inspection did two things to help set the tone of the inspection. First, they left the buyer and me a note offering us beverages- though not the wine. But water, soft drinks and juices (cooled in the outside refrigerator) were available. On a hot summer day, it was a welcome gesture.

The second was to leave another note, this one at a piece of missing trim above the bedroom door. On the note, is said simply "We will fix this." Want to talk about building trust as a seller. These folks did great.

So, two Smart Moves by Sellers to first welcome and then reassure the prospective buyers. It cost them a minute and two pieces of paper.

Burned Wires in the Panel

The burned wires in this electrical panel aren't the result of a defect in the panel, the breakers or even  the wiring.  I damaged the wiring by the simple act of removing a screw (and, no, I'm not responsible - that cover should be safe to remove. The listing agent and I had this discussion and the electrician backed me up.) Sparks flew everywhere as the screw came out and the panel sizzled in front of me. Fortunately, I wasn't hanging onto the panel cover or it would likely have knocked me across the room. Hidden defects exist in nearly every home. While the home inspector tries to find as many of them as possible, the term 'hidden defect' persists for a reason. None of us have x-ray vision so items stashed in the walls stays stashed. Even my infrared camera isn't going to help with many of these issues.

The defect in this case was the original installation of the wiring. By code, those wires should never be placed in a position where this could possibly happen. When I see wiring too close to attachment points, it gets written up for correction.

And, when I'm taking the panel cover off, my clients aren't allowed to help. The flash range on a 200 AMP panel is about three feet (so I've been told - I have no desire to test that particular factoid!) I appreciate the offer but even the slight risk that something like this can happen - this is the first time in  eight years for me - isn't worth it.

I joke when I see burned wires in the panel that someone had a bad day. You pay us to do this as safely as possible and we are, most of us, very careful but the rare nasty surprise can still be waiting. If it has to happen - let it happen to the inspector.